Maps With No Roads

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From Ruins to Reefs: A Belize Engagement Adventure

When Ariana and I started planning our trip to Belize, we were craving an escape from the February chill of the Mid-Atlantic. Belize seemed like the perfect destination to trade frost for lush jungles, turquoise waters, and sunny skies. Between the allure of Mayan ruins, jungle ecology, and beautiful beaches with coral reefs, it was everything we love rolled into one. But what Ariana didn’t know at the time was just how life-changing this trip would turn out to be. 

Spoiler alert: She said yes.

Day 1: Arrival at Gaïa Riverlodge

We arrived in Belize and hopped into a van for the two-hour drive to Gaïa Riverlodge, nestled deep in the Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve. The road wound through dense jungle, with bursts of vibrant flowers and towering trees lining the way. Occasionally, we passed roadside markets where locals sold fresh papaya, mango, and food trucks with local dishes. We stopped by one of them for a quick lunch of chicken rice and beans, making the drive feel like an immersive introduction to the country.

Ariana, ever the conversationalist, struck up a chat with our driver, who spoke passionately about growing up in this lush, mountainous region. “It’s paradise,” he said, gesturing at the jungle stretching around us. Ariana’s excitement perked up as she asked about the plants and birds we were seeing, including toucans—Belize’s national bird, known for their colorful bills and playful calls. 

When we arrived at the Gaia Riverlodge, we were greeted with a handwritten Valentine’s Day card and flowers from the staff.  To be honest, neither one of us are big valentines day people, so it slipped our mind that we’d be arriving on the 14th, but it was a nice small touch that set the tone for what was to come.

The lodge, perched on a hillside with views of a cascading waterfall, was an eco-lover’s dream. The Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve itself is a unique blend of pine forest and tropical jungle, a habitat not often seen together, thanks to Belize’s diverse microclimates. As we unpacked, the sound of the waterfall created a serene backdrop, and Ariana sighed contentedly. “This is amazing,” she said, and for a moment, I wondered if we should just toss our return tickets. 

We explored the local area for a few hours, dipping into the river down the valley, and meeting the local lodge dog before watching the sunset from the wooden balcony. 

Day 2: The Proposal at Caracol

The next morning we met up with Greg, our local Belizian-Mayan guide to explore Caracol, Belize’s largest Mayan archaeological site. But first, on the way, our expedition brought us to a stop at the Rio Frio Cave, where Greg introduced us to the Mayan belief in caves as sacred portals to the next life. This belief stemmed from their ancient mythology, where caves were seen as gateways to Xibalba, the Mayan underworld. Standing inside that massive cavern, surrounded by ancient pottery shards and towering stalactites, I couldn’t help but feel the weight of history. The air was cool and damp, carrying the faint earthy scent of centuries past.

Before leaving, Ariana left to use the restroom. I showed Greg the ring and took the oppotunity to fill him in on my intentions, and he was more than happy to be a part of it and help me plan out my plan of attack. As Ariana returned, Greg and I both casusally broke into the mid-point of an imagined conversation. 

“So how long do these thatch roofs last anyway?...”

When we finally got to Caracol, before we could even see any temple ruins we were immediately drawn in by these immense ceiba trees with their tall skinny roots that seemed to create their own structures.

Greg explained that the Mayans were as captivated by these trees as we were. Similar to the Rio Frio Cave, the Mayans believed these trees were sacred, acting as a bridge between three realms: the heavens, the earthly world, and the underworld, or Xibalba. Their roots plunge deep into the underworld, their trunk anchors our world, and their branches stretch into the sky, connecting everything in a divine balance. To the Maya, the ceiba wasn't just a tree; it was a living symbol of life, death, and rebirth. When you stand beneath one of these towering giants today, with their smooth trunks and sprawling canopies, it's easy to see why they thought these trees were magic. I am not much of a religious man myself, but standing below this ceiba tree, I could not deny the naturally occurring spiritual presence to them.

We continued on as we explored the many tombs and structures around the area; Caracol is one of those places that takes your breath away, not just because of the climb up its towering temples, but because of the sheer scale of what the Maya accomplished here. Hidden deep in the jungles of Belize, this ancient city once thrived as a political and cultural powerhouse. Picture a bustling metropolis with over 100,000 people, sprawling agricultural terraces, and the kind of astronomical knowledge that would make NASA jealous. 

Only recently re-discovered by archeologists in the 20th century, 90% of it remains unexcavated.

The glyphs scattered across its ruins tell stories of epic battles, cosmic events, and cultural turning points. But like many Maya cities, Caracol eventually faded into the jungle, its grandeur forgotten until modern archaeologists began to piece the story back together. Walking among its ruins today, it's hard not to feel humbled—by both the brilliance of the Maya and the relentless pull of nature reclaiming her own.

But nothing could prepare us for the main event: Caana, the "Sky Palace.” Towering 141 feet above the jungle floor. Built in aprox 300 BCE, to this day, it’s still the tallest manmade structure in all of Belize. It was at the summit of this temple that I planned to pop the question. 

Upon seeing the temple infront of us, my nerves immediately started to get the best of me. It was raining a bit and Ariana suggested we might want to wait for it to pass. Without thinking, I just replied with, “No. We have to get to the top… for the travel video… because… let’s just go.” 

Ariana conceded, but not without eyes that seemed to say, “Jeeze, okay Mr. director, let’s take it down a notch.”

The climb to the top was steep and humid as we occasionally did take shelter for a brief moment as the sporadic rain clouds passed overhead. 

Every step brought us closer to an unparalleled view of the surrounding forest. As we ascended, we took in details of the temple’s different phases of construction, noting that it took centuries to complete and that the next big phase of our lives was about to happen at the top. 

When we reached the summit, I told Ariana to look out at the Jungle as I set up the shot for our travel video. As she marveled at the horizon, her silhouette framed by the bright sky and the vibrant green of the jungle below, I knelt down and pulled out the ring.

…She continued to look out toward the jungle.

Finally, I prompted, “Okay, turn around.” 

Her eyes went wide, and she gasped deeply as I said what I had to say, and ended with…

“Will you marry me?”

She held out her hands to hold mine. I attempted to put the ring on her right hand as she whispered something I couldn’t make out at first, “It’s this one. This one. My left hand.”

I finally got it right and she screamed in excitement.

The site where Mayan rulers once lived and held ceremonies is now forever sacred to us for a different reason. 

That night I had a special private sunset dinner planned for us back at the lodge to celebrate.



Day 3: Coastal Bliss at Matachica

The next morning we said goodbye to Gaia River Lodge and headed back to Belize City for a short domestic flight to Ambergris Caye, an island off the coast of Mainland Belize. 

Ariana was always in on the idea that we split the time between jungle and beaches, but what she didn’t know was that I had planned a small “engagement-moon” at Matachica Resort & Spa to trade our jungle hut for beachfront luxury.

If Gaïa was wild and serene, Matachica was vibrant and indulgent. Our bungalow—decked out with tropical decor and a beach view—was adorned with more congratulations from the staff. Apparently, news of our engagement had traveled faster than we did.

That evening, we celebrated with a romantic dinner and relaxed by the water to the sounds of waves lapping against the shore, providing the perfect soundtrack as we toasted to the start of a new chapter.

Day 4: Underwater Wonders

Not being ones for lounging around too much, our next day started with a quick boat ride over turquoise waters to what seemed to be a real-life aquarium, Mexico Rocks. As soon as we anchored, Captain Chris, our guide, handed us our snorkeling gear and briefed us on the reef’s history and importance to Belize’s ecosystem. “This is a protected marine reserve,” he said. “The coral here is thriving, so we’ll see some incredible wildlife.”

The Belize Barrier Reef, part of the Mesoamerican Reef System, is the second largest in the world after Australia’s Great Barrier Reef. It’s home to over 500 species of fish, 70 types of hard coral, and countless invertebrates. Floating above the reef, I felt like I was gliding over an underwater metropolis.

Dipping into the warm, crystal-clear water, we were immediately surrounded by vibrant coral formations teeming with life. Parrotfish darted past us with their bright scales. Schools of stingrays glided gracefully along the sandy bottom. And Ariana fell in love with a baby green sea turtle that swam curiously close to her. 

The reef itself was a kaleidoscope of colors and textures, with brain coral and sea fans swaying gently in the current. Captain Chris pointed out schools of tiny blue tangs and a lone queen angelfish, its vibrant yellow and blue hues standing out against the coral.

What was particularly interesting about this coral reef was the… I guess you would say sailor equivalent of a park ranger guarding the area in a small boat that we had to check in with before we got in the water.

Belize’s marine protection efforts are no joke. Floating there, immersed in this underwater wonderland, I couldn’t help but feel grateful for Belize’s commitment to preserving such natural beauty.


Day 5: A Farewell to Belize

Our final morning was bittersweet. We strolled along the beach, reflecting on the past few days. Belize had given us so much: A Mayan archeological adventure, beach resort pampering, and a new fiancéship.  

Known as the "Jewel of Central America," Belize is a country where natural beauty meets cultural richness. From the ancient Mayan civilization to the modern conservation efforts that protect its ecosystems, it’s a place that inspires awe and respect. And now is a place that will forever be cemented as a part of our life story.

As we boarded the plane back to JFK, I looked at Ariana and couldn’t help but smile. “So,” I said, “where should we go for the honeymoon?”